Yesterday I had the opportunity to attend The Perfume Society’s talk with Luca Turin at Les Senteurs in Marylebone. Mr Turin spoke about his early days of perfume writing and recounted some of his hilarious misadventures in perfume land.
Josephine Catapano created just four perfumes during her career. She followed up 1953’s Youth Dew for Estée Lauder with Zen for Shiseido in 1964. Zen is described by Luca Turin as “a perfect woody rose”. It wears deceptively elegant, like a fresh-faced, no-make-up look that you know requires a full palette and very deft touch to achieve. A supremely affable blend of plum, roses and wood. Impossible not to love.
Shiseido Zen photographed against Japanese Chiyogami paper
Chasuble and Green Water, Les Parfums Jacques Fath, photographed by Herbert Gehr for Life Magazine, September 1949
During his lifetime, Jacques Fath, the “little prince” of post war Parisian couture, would see seven perfumes released for Les Parfums de Jacques Fath between 1945 and 1954. Two of the most famous fragrances, Iris Gris and Green Water, were created by Vincent Roubert, who also composed Knize Ten in 1924 and Coty’s answer to Chanel No. 5, L’Aimant in 1927. He also worked with Coty on L’Or (1912), A’Suma (1934), and Metéor (1949).