“Is Jasmine then the mystical Morn – the centre, the Delphi, the Omphalos of the floral world? Is it the point of departure, the one unapproachable and indivisible unit of fragrance? Is Jasmine the Isis of flowers, with veiled face and covered feet, to be loved of all yet discovered by none? Beautiful Jasmine! If it be so, the Rose ought to be dethroned and the Inimitable enthroned in her stead; suppose we create a civil war among the gardens and crown the Jasmine empress and queen of all,” Charles Dickens, Household Words as quoted in Mandy Aftel’s Fragrant.
There are other Jasmine-centric fragrances that strive to capture the essence of Jasmine freshly bloomed, in its first flush of life. Nasomatto’s stirring soliflore, Nuda, captures Jasmine after she’s been out all night in the deepest twilight hours.
Nuda is an unashamedly straightforward Jasmine, opening a with voluptuous femme fatale aspect, which exhibits the aphrodisiac eroticism of Jasmine exhaling her last breaths into the night air. Nuda casts a spell, suspending Jasmine in this apex of fragrant tragedy, at its most redolent, pungent, clinging to life, yet mere moments away from wilting.
Nuda never allows its Jasmine to veer too far into the indolic, and, at least on me, I never felt it took on a darker aspect. Nuda exuded a dreamy, come-hither quality throughout the earliest hours of its wear, before, several hours later, settling down into an intimate, soothing skin scent. I am almost certain I am detecting sandalwood in the base, and perhaps this is what gives Nuda such incredible tenacity. I could still smell it when I woke up today, and that was after just a couple of spritzes on my wrists yesterday afternoon.
Nasomatto’s Nuda certainly offers a lot of bang for its buck, but, as with most things, application is everything.
It seems that Nuda is now only available in a 4 ml Extrait size, which can be ordered via the Nasomatto web site for €42.00.
Perfumer: Alessandro Gualtieri
For further exploratory reading, I cannot recommend Mandy Aftel’s Fragrant enough.