“The tuberose, with her silvery light, That in the gardens of Malay Is call’d the Mistress of the Night, So like a bride, scented and bright; She comes out when the sun’s away.” from Lalla Rookh by Thomas Moore.
Where possible Tuberose is a starting point for me when exploring a new line of perfumes. It is the note I am most familiar with and that I have the most appreciation for. I am always interested in finding new and interesting interpretations of Tuberose fragrances that highlight a different facet to this beguiling floral note.
When I first encountered Au Pays de la Fleurs d’Oranger’s Tubéreuse Rosée I wasn’t sure what to expect. The name alone sounds like it has all the makings of a heavyweight boxing match between two of the biggest divas of the olfactory stratosphere.
Tubéreuse Rosée opens with a light pink shower of roses that brings to mind fresh berries. There is a sweetness and softness to the opening, which is peppered with a clove aspect common to most rose accords. Tuberose is there in the opening, but she is lurking quietly in the backdrop like a burlesque queen peeping at her audience from behind the red velvet curtain, adding a depth and huskiness to the top notes, balancing out their effervescent lightness.
As the curtain draws back, and the Rose accord makes its exit, Madame Tuberose slowly takes center stage, draped in swaths of Ylang Ylang, adding a slightly tropical, banana like aroma to her entrance. Tubéreuse Rosée’s heart notes swell with a lush, creamy, lactonic warmth and a slow, heady flesh-like sensuality.
Hours later – the longevity is excellent – Tubéreuse Rosée descents into its drydown, seamlessly marrying the Tuberose accord into a musky blend of Sandalwood and Vanilla.
Fans of Nasomatto’s Narcotic Venus should definitely give Tubéreuse Rosée a spin.
Tubéreuse Rosée is available to purchase via the Au Pays de la Fleurs d’Oranger web site in a 100 ml size Eau de Parfum for €95.
Perfumer: Jean-Claude Gigodot
Notes: Rose, Tuberose, Ylang Ylang, Vanilla, Sandalwood