Dissecting the Decadent Rose of Nevermore by Frapin at Bloom Perfumery and Exploring 1697, Terre de Sarment, Speakeasy and Caravelle Épicée

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Photo courtesy of thewomensroomblog.com

Photo courtesy of thewomensroomblog.com

On Tuesday 9th September Bloom Perfumery on Hanbury Street in Spitalfields played host to Frapin’s Creative Director, David Frossard, who spoke to us about the creative process behind Frapin’s latest fragrant launch, Nevermore.

Photo courtesy of Fragrantica

Photo courtesy of Fragrantica

Nevermore was inspired by the story a mysterious figure who is reported to have visited the grave of Edgar Allen Poe in Baltimore, Maryland each year to toast the writer and leave roses at his grave for his birthday on 19th January.

David lead us through the creation process detailing how each accord is relevant to the narrative of the story.  We sampled each note individually, saffron, nutmeg, aldehyde, modern wood, wine, cedarwood, rose oxyde and may rose, before having the opportunity to sample Nevermore itself, which is constructed beautifully; however, on my skin it felt a bit sweeter than I had hoped it would be.  I wanted something a bit darker with more of an edge to it.  A fragrance the expressed the maddening, all encompassing sorrow of a lost love.

That being said, the evening was a fantastic opportunity for me to sample the rest of the perfumes Frapin has on offer, and after collecting a selection of gorgeously saturated sampling strips, I ordered samples of my favorites from Bloom to get up close and personal with.

Photo courtesy of mocredo.pl

Photo courtesy of mocredo.pl

1697

1697 opened on my skin with a warm, sophisticated blend of creamy caramel and boozy notes.  It feels utterly luxurious and decadent like a beautiful cashmere purr.  As 1697 develops a cloud of enveloping luscious florals dances seamlessly through a redolence of warm, edible spices.  As the fragrance nears its exquisitely constructed dry down phase a pungent edge begins to emerge delivering patchouli and musk all wrapped in this buttery, beautifully creamy bouquet, which for me persisted throughout.

1697 has a wonderful longevity.  I am going into my sixth hour of wear, and I can still detect the fragrance around me.  I have to admit I am absolutely smitten with it.  It’s everything I am craving at the moment, and I find 1697 to be a near perfect perfume as we inch closer to the Fall / Winter season.

Bertrand Duchaufour is the perfumer responsible for 1697 which was released in 2011 that includes…

Top Notes: Cabreuva Wood, Davana and Rum

Heart: Ceylon, Cinnamon, Cloves, Hawthorn, Jasmine Sambac, Rose Essence, Ylang ylang

Base Notes: Ambergris, Cedar, Cistus, Patchouli, Tonka Beans, Vanilla, White Musk

Available from Bloom in 100ml Eau de Parfum for £135.00.

Photo courtesy of Fragrantica

Photo courtesy of Fragrantica

Terre de Sarment

Terre de Sarment opened on my skin with a sweet whisper of neroli interlaced with a zesty zing of grapefruit.  It felt warm and refreshing, not cloying in the least.  As the fragrance developed it was shot through with a warm infusion of spices giving way to a floral heart that remained most prominent until smoky tendrils rose up from the depths, cloaking the floral blend behind a curtain of spice.  At this point in the perfume’s development the spicy accords took over lending a bit of edge to Terre de Sarment I found really intriguing.

As Terre de Sarment entered its dry down stage, well past an hour of first applying, it become richer, purring as a slow moving, mellifluous vanilla meandered through the spices.  Intermingling and softening them to produce a dreamy skin scent.

Jeanne-Marie Faugier is the nose behind Terre de Sarment which was released in 2007.  Its composition includes…

Top Notes: Cumin, Grapefruit, Neroli

Heart Notes: Cinnamon, Incense, Nutmeg, Orange Blossom

Base Notes: Amyris Wood, Benzoin, Vanilla

Available from Bloom in 100ml Eau de Parfum for £98.00.

Photo courtesy of Fragrantica

Photo courtesy of Fragrantica

Speakeasy

I sampled Speakeasy on my wrist on the night of the event at Bloom, and I have to admit that I fell a little bit in love with it.  I had very much been looking forward to having some proper time with this fragrance since my samples arrived.  Speakeasy opens on my skin with a soft waft of citrus; sweet, zesty orange before taking on a richer, musky, more feminine aspect.

It develops with a powdery warmth while the hint of orange still lingers on the outskirts on the body of the fragrance.  I find the blending of notes so seamless.  Save for the orange that is apparent to me in the initial burst of top notes, no one accord seems more prominent to me than another.  Wearing Speakeasy is an absolutely pleasurable experience, and as the fragrance enters into its long dry down phase deep, lavish undertones of smoky wood rise up to take center stage; however, on my skin Speakeasy retains all of its beguiling feminine qualities as the pillowy plumes of musk interlaced with vanilla-like luxuriance remain throughout its wear.

Marc-Antoine Corticchiato is the perfumer responsible for Speakeasy which was released in 2012 with the following…

Top Notes: Lime, Rum, Orange Davana

Heart: Mint, Geranium

Base Notes: Immortelle, Labdanum, Leather, Tobacco, Tonka Beans, White Musk, Stryax, Cistus, Liatrix Flower

Speakeasy is available at Bloom in 100ml Eau de Parfum for £98.00.

Photo Courtesy of bomonde.es

Photo Courtesy of bomonde.es

Caravelle Épicée

Carvalle Épicée opens coolly, with quiet and subtlety.  Shortly after the initial fresh, herbal burst a mild peppery accord develops followed by a slowly creeping warmth as Caravelle Épicée meanders towards its dry down, a comforting, creamy blend of warm sandalwood interlaced with patchouli.  I know it does sound a bit unremarkable, and to be sure, it’s not as if there was anything particularly mind blowing about Caravelle Épicée; however, that being said, I found Caravelle Épicée a totally classic, expertly blended, great safe-for-work fragrance that I could find myself reaching for when I was in the mood for something dependable and non-challenging, like a figure skimming 60’s shift dress and Repetto ballet flats.

Caravelle Épicée is a Jeanne-Marie Faugier creation released in 2007 with the following notes…

Top Notes: Coriander, Nutmeg

Heart Notes: Thyme, Gaiac Wood, Black Pepper

Base Notes: Amber, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Tobacco

Caravelle Épicée is available in 100ml Eau de Parfum from Bloom for £98.00.

 

 

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